S/S 2017: Road Trip Part 2 (Butterick B6318)

I’d been dreaming of making another version of this dress ever since I finished my last one, way back in September.  It’s so nice to not have to worry about fit because I made all of the necessary adjustments last time.  I’m starting to understand the appeal of TNT patterns.

 

 

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This is, of course, Butterick 6318.  All notes about fitting adjustments are in my other post.  The only change I made to this one was to lengthen the sash/ties by 10″ each.  This length is perfect for tying a nice big bow.

I lined it the same as last time, but I decided to skip the facings since I wasn’t too worried about the black peeking out.

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Also, check out my label!  You may have noticed it in my last post, but I forgot to mention it.  I ordered them from Dutch Label Shop and they are so professional looking!  I bet you can’t even tell that I spent two days working on the design.  Hah! I guess simple is best, sometimes.  I don’t have a fancy affiliate coupon code or anything, but there’s always one or two floating around on some sewing blogs.

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The fabric is a lovely light and floaty rayon poplin that I ordered from Fabric.com.  I know a few other shops have also had this stuff in stock recently, like Blackbird Fabrics.  I kept seeing other sewists making some beautiful stuff out of it (like this gold-buttoned-beauty by Jess), and when I realized it wasn’t super pricey I quickly ordered 3 yards of the black and white color ways.

I’ve never used a poplin before, and always assumed that it was a lot more “crisp” and only suitable for shirts and shirt dresses.  Maybe that’s only cotton poplin?  When I received this fabric, I immediately thought “hmm, this is challis.”  Rayons do tend to be softer and have more drape than cottons, so I figure it’s probably just the fiber giving it different properties.  Anyway, this is not a complaint.  I really love this fabric, and I think it has the perfect weight and drape for this dress.

The lining is a cotton voile, also from Fabric.com.  I think it is actually a poly blend, though, because it smelled really bad when I pressed it with my iron.  Ah well, that means it will also wrinkle less, hopefully.

I had a little issue with the outer fabric being heavier than the lining and pulling down on the neckline.  I was able to fix this by simply tacking the dress and lining together in a few spots on the waistline seam.

I love how this dress turned out, and I think it’ll be a nice transition piece into the fall.  With the lining, it’ll be warm enough to wear into October or November around here, especially with some tights and ankle boots.  Hmmmm . . . I might need to go shopping for some ankle boots!

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Now that we’re over a month into summer I’m scrambling to sew up all my lightweight fabrics.  I’ve got the white color way on the cutting table now, and will hopefully have a cute button-down skirt soon!

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S/S 2017: Road Trip Part 1 (Reeta Shirt Dress by Named Patterns)

Remember way back in April when I made ALL THE (vague) PLANS for my spring/summer wardrobe?  Okay well it’s a good thing this is a blog so you don’t actually have to remember, you can just click here.  Anyway, I just went on a road trip and I have at least two more planned, so I think I can still fulfill this goal.

This is the Reeta midi shirt dress from Named.  I usually find their patterns very pretty and stylish, but for some reason I always thought I fell slightly outside of their size range and had written them off a long time ago.  I checked the size chart for this dress, however, because I kept seeing so many wonderful versions online.  Some of their patterns max out at a size US 14, but others go up to a US 18.  I was delighted to find that I was well within the size range for this rather loose-fitting dress.

Because it had been quite a while since I last made a garment (do bras count?), I decided it would be best to make a muslin.  I pulled some navy blue rayon twill that had been sitting in the stash for a few years.  I bought it from Hart’s back when I didn’t understand how much fabric I’d need for certain projects.  Two yards was only enough for a shirt version, but most of my fit adjustments were up top anyway.

Adjustments Round 1:

  • Cut a size 10 at the shoulders/bust/waist, and graded out to a 14 from the waistline to the vent/side slit.  There’s a lot of design ease, but I wanted to keep it loose and flowing.
  • Shortened length by 3″ (dress is drafted for someone who is 5′ 8″ and I am about 5′ 5″)
  • 1/2″ narrow shoulder adjustment (using this technique for slashing the yoke, and this technique for removing width at the top of the shoulder)
  • Lowered the bust dart 1″
  • 1″ FBA

I realized that I deleted all the photos I took of myself in the shirt, so I had to pull these from Instagram.  There’s nothing super special about it, though, so you’re not missing much.

Construction is pretty simple, and even though I am slow I managed to finish it in 2 days.  There’s no topstitching in the instructions, but I guess you could add that if you so desired.  I kind of like the breezy clean look without it.

The only part I had to unpick was the collar.  There were two reasons for this: 1) I didn’t stay stitch the neckline, so it had stretched a bit and 2) the collar pattern piece had a crazy-looking curved angle at the end that made it virtually impossible to get into the neckline.  I did some digging and found that many people had the same issue, so I think it really is the pattern and not my own ineptitude.  This version is still wearable because the sins are mostly hidden under the collar itself.  Otherwise, I was pretty happy with the fit.

 

Here I have compared the collar pattern piece to Butterick B6296, a pajamas pattern with a similar collar style and construction.  You can see a big difference in the shape of the collar.

Adjustments Round 2:

  • Fixed collar by smoothing out the curve at the front edge
    • It went in SO MUCH BETTER!  Here’s how I did it:
      • 1) marked all seam allowances and measured the length of each seam line (to make sure the collar still fit into the neckline after adjustments)
      • 2) traced the pattern onto tissue paper
      • 3) used my curved ruler (I use this one) to smooth out the curve and make it less sloped.
      • 4) measured length of seam line – it was 1/4″ shorter than before (which makes sense, a straighter curve will also be shorter).  I slashed and spread down the middle of the collar (just to the right of the notch) to add back the 1/4″.
      • 5) added the seam allowance
  • Went back and forth trying to decide if I needed a broad upper back adjustment, and in the end decided against it.  I have pretty good ROM, but might do the adjustment in the future.  We’ll see!
  • When hemming the sleeves, I folded them up 2.5″ instead of the 2″ in the instructions.  I did this because 1) I thought the sleeves were a tad too long and 2) the extra 1/2″ allowed me to better hide the first line of stitches sewn when making the cuff.  I still think they’re a little long overall and might shorten them 1/2″ next time.
  • I took the time to make the pockets, but ended up not adding them.  With the drawstring waist, I couldn’t find a place to put them that didn’t seem to produce a headlights effect.  I think the print is interesting enough without them, anyway.

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My mother said this was a “granny dress” and she’s probably right, but I love it.  It’s sort of my ideal summer dress: loose (yet cinched at the waist so it’s not shapeless), lightweight, long (I’ll take midi over maxi any day), pretty modest, and super breezy.  This Cotton + Steel/Rifle Paper Co. rayon challis is the perfect weight for it, and feels so soft against the skin.

I was looking for a way to incorporate the lovely selvedge and ended up using it as the drawstring casing on the inside of the dress – it’s about 3/4″ wide, which is exactly what the pattern calls for.

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I was worried this dress wouldn’t travel well because rayon is prone to wrinkling.  I folded it neatly in my duffel bag (which is me-made and needs its own post) and then hung it up when I got to my sister’s apartment in NYC.  The wrinkles mostly fell out over 24 hours, and it was really comfortable to wear in the oppressive heat and humidity over the weekend.

I also got my sister to take a few pics of me in front of some street art/murals in Chinatown.

We (my two younger sisters and I) had a really fun long weekend in NYC.  I sadly did not have a lot of time for fabric shopping, and honestly I do not need any more fabric, but I did drag them to Mood for a brief look through the non-designer silks.  (Oh yes, it was hard to tear myself way from the designer silks – I’m still dreaming of one light pink one covered in huge green pears that was priced at $40/yd.)  I walked away with 3.5 yards of a geometric silk CDC ($16/yd, if you’re curious) – just enough for a specific dress pattern I had in mind.  It’s hard to capture the colors – it’s actually sort of a baby blue color and the lines are neon yellow.

I last visited the garment district about 5 years ago and left empty handed after becoming totally overwhelmed by the selection.  Has this happened to any of you?  Since then, I’ve learned to go in with a plan.  And even though I really don’t need to go fabric shopping, I’d love to go back and visit some of the trimmings shops.  The button selection at JoAnn’s leaves quite a bit to be desired.